Passimentrie - Final Developed Samples

This week I have been working on developing different samples which demonstrate different ways of creating a sculptural, yet manipulated piece of fabric. 

I decided it would be beneficial to my project to cut up some of the giant grey rouleaux in order to develop it directly into several embroidered samples. Some of the better samples that evolved through the week are shown below. I left a large proportion of the giant rouleaux intact so that it didn't ruin the dramatic effect of it.

 I used different machine embroidery techniques such as Pin-Tucking, Taylor-Tacking, Cording and the Reed Pleater in order to develop the above samples.

I researched textile artists that use translucent materials to create structures and came across Jan Garside and Caroline Broadhead, whose pieces (seen above respectively), gave me an insight into a possible context for my work. My pieces could be part of a sleeve for fashion or could simply be a piece of material, for example.

In order to channel my thoughts, I chose some words to focus my mind which were reflective of the twisted reed pleater sample in my previous post and gathered images of the fairground scene. These were: Spring, Twist, Contort and Compress. I believe the samples that I have developed over the week are reflective of these words as well as being reflective of the colour palettes I originally depicted from the visit to Blackpool Pleasure Beach and the Belle Vue archive visit.

Below are some of the other samples that I have developed with those words in mind.  

I initially thought about ways of manipulating translucent fabrics such as silk organza, so I looked at a fabric manipulation book by Ruth Singer which inspired me to use box pleating and pressing the fabric to contort it (see above images). I chose to use velvet as it has a pile and would spiral quite easily when made into a rouleaux and would role itself round naturally if I left it. 

Throughout this project I have found certain aspects challenging as the majority of techniques were new to me. However, I feel that I have gained an insight into the world of weave, through the use of looms and different yarns and also through the reed pleater which allows woven but embroidered samples. I would say that I have enjoyed the project but I have found it easier to use embroidery techniques rather than the weave techniques I learned earlier on in the project. The range of samples I have created throughout the project depict the fun and the dark side of the fairground through the colour palette I have used. I feel that I could have been more innovative with drawing references and looked at more images in the first few weeks in order to kick start some of the ideas that I had later on in the project.

Rouleaux

After experimenting with ruffles on the body, I decided to look at other ways that ruffles could be effective. By twisting a sample that I made using the read-pleater, I noticed that it could be representational of a carousel pole (as seen on my previous post). 

After reassessing my original photographs from Blackpool and Belle Vue, as well as secondary images from Pinterest and the Internet, I was influenced by the twisted and contorted shape of the poles. I decided to get some of my ideas down onto paper, so therefore I began to draw again.

Drawing with twists and spirals.

I then wanted to experiment with different compositions in order to give me more ideas for sculptural work in future samples. I created a giant rouleaux and as it fell to the floor it created the spiral above. The string that I corded onto the organza fabric gave the rouleaux structure and allowed a more 3D outcome. I also like the way that the string curls up as it is forced into the spiral shape.

 

Twisting the rouleaux around a cardboard tube. Because the string is sewn tightly to the fabric, it allows the rouleaux to contort and twist which creates the rippled edge and an interesting texture.

Experimenting with colour compositions - linked from previous research from Blackpool and original colour palettes - adding texture with edging. The pom-poms resemble the tassels on the curtains on the image above as well as the shape of the rouleaux being like the barriers in front as well as twisted like a carousel pole at a fairground.  

To move the project on for the final week and to finalise my ideas, I would like to experiment with manipulating fabrics in order to create interesting textures like I have achieved with considering a more structural approach. I will work with translucent materials to allow the stitch to show through and allow some more structural, manipulated samples.